Great Time For Fishing in Marathon, Florida!

Great Time For Fishing in Marathon, Florida!

 

Charters are picking up as people are taking advantage of the off-season hotel cost reductions in Marathon, Florida. I took a new client, Eric, out bottom fishing and boy did he get what he wanted; a sore arm! Eric caught four slob muttons, cobia and dolphin.

There was a great mutton bite here in Marathon! Fishing wrecks and live bottom with live or fresh dead bait has been key, and either pinfish, ballyhoo, or cigar minnows have been the bait of choice. I have had a good west current but water clarity has been less than desirable on these trips.

Sailfish and dolphin are cruising just outside of the reef and live bait has been the best choice to pursue them and entice them to bite. I would recommend either looking for fish or blind trolling as the best methods for these great predators. This is a great time of the year to fish because most of the fishing is within 8 miles from shore; so come on down, get out of the cold and come fishing in the sunny Florida Keys!

 

Get Out of the Wind

During the winter and spring we tend to get plenty of wind, and as the wind blows the seas pick up to heights where people just don’t go off shore to fish. Don’t let the wind and waves get you down, get out there, and just don’t go as far. There is plenty of inshore fishing around the Keys to fish. Up and down the Keys there are numerous areas which are protected from the wind. You can choose to fish the patch’s which are are only 3-4 miles out. During the winter the winds will generally be somewhat a northern direction so fishing on the south side of the island is where you want to be.

The patches are anywhere from 35-15 feet of water so you won’t need the big rigs, but 10-20 pound gear is what I use. The patches are a conglomerate of grass and reef all intertwined together. Since its shallow the grass can grow and the reef flourishes well in this shallow water too. When hurricanes hit, the shallow reefs do take a beating and I have seen in some areas where entire reefs patches have been destroyed by heavy seas. There are many baits I like to use on the patches and to have an assortment will improve your catch. I prefer to have ballyhoo, shrimp, pinfish and pilchards. I like the knocker rig as well for the patches, since there is rarely too much current to use a knocker rig it is very effective on the patches. I will use cut ballyhoo, pinfish, shrimp, and pilchards on this rig. Because we are fishing near or on the patch reef a leader rig will get hung up too often for my tastes and the knocker rig is designed for keeping your bait close to the bottom, allowing the fish to run with the bait and if you do get hung in the bottom it has a greater chance of freeing itself. If you get hung in the bottom with a knocker rig don’t pull hard, as you will only drive the hook further into the snag, or wedge the weight in the coral crevice. But instead, let the line go slack and jerk up violently. Do this repeatedly until snag comes free. It’s important to let the line go slack as this will change the direction of the pressure of the line when you jerk up. Do this for 2-4 minutes and at your last resort break it off.

When people think of the patches they think of hogfish, as this is where most of them live. The grass beds and coral patches contain their favorite food, crustaceans. Shrimps, little crabs are the diet of the hogfish, but they will eat fish sometimes. So when targeting these tasty critters you should use shrimp on a 1/8-1/4 oz. jig or the same size knocker rig. I will tend to choose patches that are close to the grass beds or even grass beds themselves. I will not put chum out if I am targeting them but I will pop the heads off the shrimp and put them into a chum bag and lower it down to the bottom on some cord with some weight. This will keep the small yellowtails and blue runners from converging on your chum slick as if you were to use frozen chum. If you use frozen chum and you toss out shrimp 50-1 you will catch anything but a hog fish as they will generally eat it before it hit the bottom, whereas hogfish are slow eaters and with all the other fish around they only get the scraps. So try this method without chum just the shrimp heads, if you want you can also just pitch the shrimp heads over the side but I find that keeping them in the bag they will last longer. Move from patch to patch until you find a good gathering of hogfish or jump in and look around and shoot them with a spear gun. But using this shrimp chum method really works.

Patches are loaded with fish but some are barren, so cruise around and look for schooling fish, this will indicate natural food is present and that there may be great fishing ahead. After you have chosen your location I like to spiral out with the cum bag in the water spreading out the chum as I said before, there is generally little current on the patches, so use the boat to spread out the chum before you anchor down. If you find out that there is no current, you may and try another spot. Fishing in front of the seven mile bridge, there is always water movement here, if there is no current there is always an influx of water from the tides here. It’s one of the top spots for tarpon fishing charters in Marathon. Another favorite of mine is mangrove fishing and my favorite bait for them is pilchards with pinfish coming in as a close second. Using a knocker rig I will hook the pilchards a little different than most. I hook the pilchard through the anus and come out right before throat. Just under the pectoral fin. I use a #3 long shank hook for this method, as it will not work with a short shank hook. This will not kill the bait if done right, and it will allow the bait to swim up off of the bottom in sight of the large mangroves. I generally allow the mangrove snappers to run with the bait for about 3-5 feet, this allows them get the hook in the mouth, as mangroves tend to grab and run with the bait before they take it all the way in their mouth. So, by allowing them to run with the bait for a few feet will help your hookup ratio, especially if you are using cut ballyhoo or live bait.

If the wind is blowing too hard to even get out on the patches, there is another untapped area people overlook. Here in Marathon there are plenty of along shore fishing areas. The bridge may not be for everyone, but Sisters Creek has snook, ladyfish, snappers, groupers, tarpon, and even redfish this time of the year. If you don’t have pilchards then shrimp will be the next best bait to use. You can chum, which I like to do and get a feeding frenzy going. Now since you are in a creek or canal there is always water movement so make sure you have sinkers up to 1 ½ oz. and in this area I like using a short leader rig with a swivel which keeps the bait away from the weight. Like the bridge, in certain areas the tide will spread out your chum. You can use pinfish here as well as long as they are really small or cut them in half if you can’t get those candy sized baits. When I look for places to fish I will look for turns in the creek or heavy over grown mangroves trees. Fish right up against the trees and if you do have pilchards throw some out as chum. I even catch mackerel in the creek so you just never know what there will biting that day but there are always mangroves and grouper. Don’t let your vacation or your day off go to waste, get out and go fishing even when the wind blows.

Mutton Honey

Wintertime has come early this year and as the weather cools the water, fish will venture towards the deeper, more stable water temperatures.  February is a great month to fish down here in the Keys.  The mutton snapper bite will be very stable throughout the winter on the wrecks and reefs.  There are many ways way to fish for muttons, but I believe the most productive way is live bait.  Muttons can be tricked to eat many different types of artificial lures and most small live baits.  As with muttons, groupers and amberjacks will also be very abundant on the wrecks and reefs as well.

Fishing the reefs for muttons may be different than what you think.  Most people think of reefs and they assume that the depth of water is from 25-100 feet.  Well, they are mostly right.  We also have reefs as far out as 200 feet.  They generally have low relief and can be stacked with muttons.  There are bands of reef that stretch east and west ranging in depths of 125-200 feet of water.  I will scout areas where I have caught fish in the past, and what I am looking for is bait.  Looking at your depth finder, look for what most of us call fuzzy bottom.  This fuzzy bottom is scattered bait such as tomtates and other small grunts and porgies.  This is the primary food source for the muttons while they are out on these reefs.

These reefs also have an abundant supply of small crustaceans, which muttons can’t resist.   Occasionally I get snagged on these deep reefs, but by having a rig with a breakaway lead you will save most of your rig if you do encounter a snag.  I will fish these areas where I mark bait.  It takes a while sometimes until you find out where the fish are hanging out on the reef.  One day they will be right on top, other days they will be in the sand, either inside or outside of the reef.  Using a three-way swivel rig or swivel bead swivel method, drifting or slow trolling your bait back and forth on these deep reefs you will eventually find out where the fish are gathering.  Once you find the fish, you will find them in similar locations on other reefs.

Wrecks are highly guarded so don’t bother asking any of the local charter boat captains.  But keep your eye on your bottom finder when you are running in 100-300 feet, you just might find some.  I have been given some of the numbers that I have and traded with other captains to accumulate about twenty wrecks in a thirty mile area.  I have found about dozen on my own, by just looking at the bottom while traveling from spot to spot.  A good way to find wrecks is to look for bait gathering on the surface or on your depth sounder.  If you are marking lots of bait, there is a good chance there is wreck near by or a very healthy reef.  There is a neat website that has wrecks so you can start with a few.  This website is www.cyberangler.com/reefs/.

I mainly use live bait on the wrecks, but I do have a few friends who love using jigs for muttons and groupers.  I do use butterfly jigs for the amberjacks when the kingfish are not swarming, because otherwise it can get quite expensive.  Don’t over look dead bait; it can work great some days.  I prefer split-tailed ballyhoo or bonita strips for my dead bait.  When using dead bait I will hold my rod high and when I get a bite I will drop the tip and allow the mutton or grouper to inhale the bait especially on long baits such as ballyhoo and bonita strips.  I make my leaders long, 15-20 feet to be exact.  I use the long leaders for two reasons, one is to get the bait away from the bouncing lead, and the other is to ensure the mutton snapper gets the bait in his mouth before you start reeling.  I always use at least 10oz of lead or more.  I find that sash weights or bank sinker type weights tend to hold better than egg sinkers.  Keeping the weight close to the bottom is usually sufficient, if the lead comes up about ten feet or so is ok too.  If you find that your lead is having a hard time staying down, and already have over a pound on, try backing up to your line to keep your lead on the bottom.  We call this a controlled drift, and on really windy days it is the only way to go.   When the wind and current allow it, I can literally troll my bait across the bottom in search of a hungry mutton, and I always watch for my lead to hit the bottom every once in a while.  You can also just drift and systematically cover the bottom until you find the muttons.  Having a long leader allows the bait to stay close to the bottom where the muttons food is naturally found.   I have caught muttons half way up while reeling in after a drift; so even high in the water column you can catch these tasty critters.

Fishing wrecks may require a little boat handling skills on windy days to ensure that you are able to keep your bait in the zone as long as you can.  I find that most of my bites will occur fairly close to the wreck.  But don’t pull up and start over until you get a tenth of a mile away from the wreck as muttons circle the wreck at different distances.  Just like the deep reef, when you find an area near the wreck where you caught one, you should be able to hit that spot again and again.  Some people like to anchor up on these wrecks, but that requires precise anchoring.  It may take you a few times to get it right, but when the bite goes off, it best behooves you to be positioned right.  Sometimes anchoring can diminish your chances of catching a lot, due to the fact that the fish are not located right behind your boat.  Before anchoring I would drift around and try and find out where the fish are eating.  Then after determining where the school is feeding, anchor up so that the spot is right behind the boat.  When anchoring we use bombs, which are cut bait and soft chum mixed with sand.  You can place this mixture in a paper bag and drop it to the bottom.  When the bomb hits the bottom it explodes expelling chum and chunks, which the larger fish will snack on until they see your bait.  There are some cons about the bombs, as they attract sharks and triggerfish.  Sharks are bad because once they key on you, getting your fish to the surface in one piece can be almost impossible.  Triggerfish will kill your bait or even remove it from your hook without you knowing it, so use the bombs only as a last ditch effort on a slow bite.

The tackle I use for mutton fishing is light, but effective.  You will loose some big groupers but if you want to target muttons, but the lighter the better.  I use 50-pound braid with a 10-20 foot shock leader of 60-pound.  This shock leader has two jobs.  It gives you a little stretch as the fish runs hard and it also allows my lead to slide along the mono and not the braid.  I use the swivel bead swivel method, which acts like a three-way but doesn’t allow the fish to feel the lead and gives you great sensitivity for even the lightest of bites.  By sliding a bead before the swivel it will not allow the lead to slide past your knot from the braid to mono.  Then I slide on another bead before tying on my swivel, which my 15-20 foot leader is attached to.  This extra bead keeps your lead swivel from catching on your knot to your swivel from the leader.

So to simplify this rig, slide a bead on, then slide a swivel on, slide another bead and tie another swivel to your shock leader.  The swivel that slides I attach one foot of 30-pound where I attach my lead for the break away.  I use 30-50 pound floro carbon for my leaders, but regular mono for the shock leader.  The shock leader needs to stretch and mono stretches more than floro carbon.

As for my hooks, I prefer to use a circle hook, it allows for non targeted species to be released unharmed, and for my inexperienced anglers who have a hard time keeping the line taught at all times.  The circle hooks also tend to catch fish in the corner of the mouth so that the fish’s teeth aren’t rubbing on your leader.  They don’t have very sharp teeth but with enough pressure and time the muttons will have no problem severing through your leader if they are gut hooked.

I set my drags light because muttons don’t normally run for cover, but instead high tail it for open water.  If there is a lot of structure where you are fishing you may want to tighten up your drag a bit and use some 50-pound floro.  I like circle hooks, and the one I use is made by Mustad and are called Circle Demons.  I generally use 8/0 and 9/0 in this style; to me it is like Velcro to an Afro if you ask me.  I rarely miss bites and that is important when my clients are fishing.  So get out there try something new, and take these tips for your next fishing trip down here in the Keys.